All Culinary Artist Must Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Leading Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.